Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli: Bridging Heritage and Innovation at Paris Couture Week
Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2024 collection was one of the most talked-about events at Paris Couture Week. Known for his unique ability to combine different worlds, Roseberry's latest collection showcased an intriguing mix of old and new.
The show opened with the iconic 20th Century Fox fanfare, setting the stage for a collection that merged elements from Roseberry’s Texas roots with high-fashion sophistication. "I wanted people to feel the collection was referencing a different time," Roseberry said. "There was something about the '50s that felt so fresh and simple."
Roseberry drew from his background, incorporating Texas-inspired elements such as bandanas, cowboy boots, and horse braid dressage knots into the designs. At the same time, he paid homage to his family's history with a nod to his uncle Giovanni Schiaparelli’s discovery of "Martian channels" on Mars in 1877. This blend of personal history and fashion created a unique narrative.
The soundtrack of the show featured music from "Top Gun," "Alien," and "Oppenheimer," reflecting Roseberry’s love for film and his desire to dig deeper into his American roots while working for a prestigious French luxury house. This mix of American and French influences was evident throughout the collection.
The collection included several references to the 1950s, a golden era for haute couture. Roseberry said, "I had this dream of finding a forgotten couture collection in the basement of Elsa’s country house." This vision came to life in the basement of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, where the show was staged. Models walked gracefully, making eye contact with the audience, which included stars like Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner.
Roseberry is known for his innovative designs. The collection featured pieces like a cape with broad eagle-like shoulders and a party dress with a tulle skirt and pink rhinestones. He also included a bustier dress with cups shaped like high heels, inspired by a famous hat Elsa Schiaparelli once made. These designs showcased his creativity and the brand’s ability to push boundaries.
One of the standout themes of the collection was a tribute to ballerina Anna Pavlova and the mythical phoenix. "If Pavlova was always associated with her iconic performance in 'The Dying Swan,' then Schiaparelli was a phoenix," Roseberry explained. The opening look, a black velvet cape with wing-like embroidery, symbolized rebirth and set the tone for the show. Other designs featured silk organza feathers and hand-cut silk ribbons, creating a sense of movement and elegance.
Schiaparelli’s shows are known for their star-studded front rows. This season, celebrities like Selma Blair, Sabrina Dhowre Elba, and Kelly Rutherford attended, dressed in custom Schiaparelli outfits. Their presence added to the glamour and excitement of the event.
Daniel Roseberry’s work for Schiaparelli seamlessly blends the past, present, and future. His Spring-Summer 2024 collection reaffirmed the brand’s position in haute couture, showcasing his ability to create stunning, innovative designs that honor tradition while looking forward.
All in all, Roseberry’s latest collection for Schiaparelli was a brilliant mix of personal history, cinematic influence, and high-fashion elegance. It celebrated the brand’s legacy while pushing the boundaries of modern couture, ensuring that Schiaparelli remains a leader in the fashion industry.
